Pages

Le 6 Paul Bert: A Review

I've been following David Lebovitz's blog for some time and now that we're actually living in Paris for 3 months, I'm eager to follow up on many of his recommendations.  Just this week David posted a review and recommendation of Le 6 Paul Bert.













We were woefully early, even for our reservation which was on the early side.  So early, that the staff were still finishing their pre service meal.;) They very nicely sat us, served as an aperitif and a small plate of their salami (which was delicious)!!

The front half of the restaurant is a small épicerie, where they sell charcuterie, oils, pasta, piment d'espelette, and so forth.  The kitchen is small and open at the back of the kitchen.














We ordered the forumule where we chose 3 savory dishes and 1 dessert, 38 euros.

Guillaume's Meal:




Carpaccio de maigre, pourtargue, babeurre et grissini
Tartare de veau, chops de pain, oignons fumés et piments (veal tartare)
Longe d'agneau, endive rôtie et olives (Loin of lamb, roasted endive with olives)
Cannoli citron, sorbet fromage blanc (cannoli filled with lemon cream)














Ellie's Meal:

Dos de barbue, navets et beurre de laitue de mer (catfish)
Asperges des Alpilles, mayonnaise fumé, haddock et oeuf vapeur (asparagus, smoked mayo, haddock and egg yoke)

I was most unprepared for this dish, having not translated all the components prior to the dish being served.  The asparagus was cooked perfectly, with a slight bite.  The dish was lukewarm, and the flavors of the egg yoke and smoked mayo rounded out the dish.

Long d'agneau, endive rôtie et olives (Loin of lamb, roasted endive with olives)

The saltiness of the olives with the roasted endive, and the melt in your mouth butter lamb with a crispy smokey layer of fat was a great way to end the savory part of the meal.

Ganache chocolat amer, poire et chocolat glacé (chocolate ganache with pear)

As much as I like chocolate, I almost preferred G's.  The lemon cannoli was refreshing and paired with the fromage blanc sorbet served as good palette cleanser as well as ending the meal on a nice sweet note.

The bread was delicious, especially the piment d'espelette one :)

Both G and I enjoyed our meal, and if there weren't so many other restaurants to try we would come back (and might still)!!  






Le 6 Paul Bert
6, rue Paul Bert (11th)
01 43 79 14 32
Métro: Faidherbe-Chaligny


Keeping It Real

There's little wiggle room in the complaint department while you're living in Paris, not having to work (and I am aware of that), but argh my braces are just about going to drive me batty again.  I had been doing rather well with coping with the invasion of metal in mouth, but in order to minimize the movement of my teeth while away for 6 months (my ortho wasn't exactly thrilled that I would be leaving the country for 6 months) and as such, I won't be having monthly adjustment visits.  So, the Monday before we departed for France I had my last orthodontist appointment for 6 months and rather than rubber bands wrapped around the metal braces, they wrapped metal wires around each brace.  The taste of metallic is strong in my mouth!!!    

In other news, and keeping with the theme...

I had a fun morning exploring yet another market (Marché Bastille, or Richard Lenoir), this one is by far the best.  Lots of selections.  I successfully asked for my goods in French.  I really need to practice my numbers.  I have a hard time hearing/understanding the amount.  I picked up some pomme de terres Charlotte (potatoes), deux poireaux (two leeks), Frisee, fraises, quatre crottin de chèvre (4 poops of goat cheese), San Danielle, and Frais Tagliatelle (the vendor here gave me deux tiramisu as a cadeau) ;) I also picked up some Paté en Croute, Friande (basically a sausage roll).  We enjoyed some of this accompanied by some of the cheese we picked up the other day from famous Parisian Fromager Laurent Dubois, for lunch.




Laurent Dubois holds the highly coveted Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF), Best Craftsman in France.  The MOF is a competition held in France wherein craftsman within their trade compete for the title of MOF.  A pretty big deal around here!!!

Kings of Pastry is an excellent movie/documentary highlighting the journey of pastry makers as they compete for the honor of MOF.











Then I hit a wall...I think my long sojourn the day before caught up with me, the travel, the sleepless nights, the fact that I am in Paris (LOTS of emotions with that one, I can tell you), plus the tiniest washing machine and no dryer (something so very inconsequential and nothing terrible) and I just felt the energy drain from me.  I curled up on the couch and within minutes I was asleep, and slept for 2 hours.  A nap can cure nearly all that ails ;)






Á bientôt!!

Just Be


I almost don’t know what to do with myself.  In the weeks leading up to moving to France, I quit both my jobs and although one was 16 hours and the other 14-16, my weeks were full, my days long and I was constantly on the go, seeing people, baking for church, working, or barely managing to keep up with household chores (which is more a matter of dislike than time)!!!  Now, we’re living in a 700 square foot apartment, which means minimal clean up, I’m not working, I don’t know anyone, I have no commitments (save feeding my husband ;)), and my responsibilities include learning French and, well that’s it really!!!

Granted I am only a few days into this chapter of life, and next week I both start daily 4 hour French classes and we have guests, so I am sure next week will be a different story.  I have pages of places to explore, and lists of attractions I want to do but right now I feel in a trance, a time warp so to speak.  Living in this time continuum, life is going on as normal back in California, and we (with some effort) pulled out of the tapestry of California and are weaving a new story.

It’s a great personal experiment of learning to just BE.  To be with myself, to be with God, to be with G (who will no doubt wish very soon that I’ll be elsewhere).  He has to work, and will do so mainly from home, so the idea is for me to make myself scarce during the day as much as possible.  Although, the plan is also for him to work in one of the two bedrooms in the apartment as to let me have the freedom to roam in the front space.  All elements that are being ironed out, and will change day to day, and week to week depending on weather, activities, work load (for him), visitors (we have guests next week like I mentioned, then G’s dad for a day, my aunt and uncle for a weekend, my nan, more friends mid May, and another set of friends at the end of May.  Plus, we are hoping to make it to Strasbourg at least once a month, as well as a few weekend visits of our own).  

Oh wait, what was I saying...oh yeah, just being, no commitments....:)

Yesterday was an excellent example of “just being” though.  Besides my plan to make it to the school to collect my materials, I could just “be” with me.  The whole being on my own, for that whole time with minimal interaction did get a little weird.  Even I can only take so much of myself ;)  Towards the end of my loooong walk, I realized I was talking to myself and not just in my head, but out loud.  I would be standing at the crossing, waiting for the magical green man (because I can assure, unless you are absolutely certain there aren’t any cars, you do NOT want to go without the green man’s go ahead and even then, it is a little dodgy) and I could hear someone speaking, saying something like “Wait for it, wait for it, GO!!”  I quickly realized that this person was ME!!  So I think things could get very interesting!!!

Á bientôt mes amis!!

Directionally Challenged

I had a simple plan today, I would walk from our place to the Place Monge where I would have a quick look at the market, then I would quickly walk to Alliance (the French school, where I'll begin classes next week), from there I would stroll towards the Eiffel Tower, slowly making my way home again.

In theory, I did just that.  However, in practice I expertly got myself lost, added an extra loop (or two) along the way, and was out for 6 hours and upon returning home felt like my feet would fall off!!

See map below:



I did have a map, not a good one and unfortunately our phones aren't yet set up to work here (hopefully by the end of the week).  As an aside, it is startling how much I rely on my phone - for entertainment (FB, IG), to share updates along the way, Maps, Google for information, addresses, places to see, etc.  So it will be nice when I can have use of the phone while I am out and about.  Although really, I doubt having the map on the phone would have helped too much.  You see from the Market (which is B), I first went towards the right direction and for some reason I second guessed myself, and crossed down ending up at C (Jardin de Plantes), and then finally looping myself back in the right direction.  

It's a good lesson for me personally, one I've been reminded of a few times in recent months.  I need to trust my instincts, and not doubt that I am making the right decision.  Just like in my walk, I've ended up looping back to the same point and then going forward (adding unnecessary steps along life's way)! 


As to my explorations:

The market at Place Monge was definitely better than yesterday's market at Place Maubert.  It had a wider selection, and more stalls.  It will be interesting to see how the markets shift as Spring really sets in motion.  Yesterday's boot purchase was a thankful addition to my "walk about" wardrobe, as highs in the mid 40s aren't exactly warm!!  I did spot little traces of Spring, and again look forward to seeing how the approaching season changes the City.













I retrieved my book and student ID for when I start French classes next week.  I will be taking a class daily from 9-1PM, and I am not too sure what to expect.  I am sure the class and my experience(s) will provide ample writing material (it has to be good for something, besides just learning French ;))!!












Feeling rather ravenous at this point, I eagerly looked for somewhere to eat.  As if he was right beside me, I heard G's voice telling me not to pick some of the places I passed as they empty.  I ate at a charming Brassiere, Le Raspail.  I successfully asked for a table for "Une Personne," and ordered my "plat du jour," and my "un verre de vin."  Baby steps people, baby steps.

I did then make way towards the Eiffel Tower, making a quick stop in the Le Bon Marche and snapping a quick photo of the USA aisle (corn syrup, marshmallow fluff - strawberry and regular, and peanut butter dominating the majority of the shelf)!!  More on the Eiffel Tower later, she deserves her own post.

At this point I was feeling the cold, realizing that I still had to get home, and starting to feel that I had spent enough time in my own head.  About 30 - 45 minutes later (after walking along the Seine, crossing a bridge, and seeing another garden) I made it to the Rue du Rivoli (which I knew eventually - a long eventually mind you, led to the turn off for our street).  Once on this street I practiced a little Parisian Chicken.  I won 2 out of the 3!!!  





Á bientôt!

The First Day!!


Crossing "our" bridge to the Île St Louis, sunrise?!
So the whole sunrise over the City didn't pan out as it was a cloudy, overcast morning.  I did however enjoy my walk, almost skipping as I went.  In part because of the cold, but mostly because it is a surreal sensation to wake up and walk out onto the streets of Paris.  We're staying on the Right Bank, so I crossed over to the Île St Louis, and walked along the Seine until I reached a street leading to Notre Dame.  






First glimpse of the Tour Eiffel


From there I had my first glimpse of the Lady.  She has always been one of my favorite things about the City, but I can tell that the neighborhoods around our place will fast become my favorite.  Especially in the early hours, it feels cocooned from the rest of Paris.  Following the Notre Dame, I crossed back over to the Right Bank and walked by the Hôtel de Ville and along the Rue du Rivoli, eventually leading all the way down to the Bastille and looping back home, stopping to pick up breakfast at our local Boulanger (which is conveniently located a stone's throw away from our place)!




G on the Pont de l'Archevêché

Guillaume and I next went to get our Navigo passes (allowing for easier access to the Metro and the Velib (bikes), then we sauntered along to the Marche Maubert.  The Marché Maubert is the oldest market in Paris, originally it was called Palu, and began in the 5th Century.  In the mid 1500s it outgrew its location on l'Île de la Cité, and moved to the current location at Place Maubert in the 5th. 













Things I learnt today...

Self Portrait, I've never looked so awake
and happy at 630AM!!!
Word of the Day -- Panier: basket

Overall, our neighborhood is rather friendly and I everyone I encountered today was helpful and pleasant (except for the Monoprix Cashier).  From the shoe shopkeeper who spoke English with me, to the Monoprix security man who taught me panier and helped me locate one, to the gentleman in the Boulangerie who offered to help carry one of my bags out of the store for me.  


I need to buy a cart, if I plan to buy more than a bag or two of groceries.  

Buying 5 overloaded bags of groceries, stopping at the boulangerie, and walking home was perhaps not the smartest idea.  I need to rethink grocery shopping even more.



When you're awake at 330, and exploring by 630, by the time 12noon rolls around you're rather tired!!!  Edited: I've made it to 130, but I think a nap is now necessary :)  Edited 2: a nap was enjoyed, but boy is it hard to wake up from one!!!

Paris is quite a bit colder than California, which I knew to expect, but expecting and experiencing are quite different!!!  It's OK though, it meant I needed to buy some boots and at 50% off I'ld say it wasn't a bad thing ;)

À bientôt!!


Nous sommes arrivés en France


I am sitting in the stillness, with a warm cup of tea and half a leftover pain aux raisin in the cozy confines of our Paris apartment!!  Our French adventure has begun.  We’ll be living in Paris for three months, followed by three months in the French Riviera.  Jet Lag has won the first round.  I’ve been awake since 330am, after giving in to sleep at 730 last night.  

It hasn’t quite sunk in yet that for the next three months I’ll be calling Paris my home, and that this stable turned apartment is where I’ll reside with G.  

Thankfully we are off to fortuitous start, as the flight was smooth, customs posed no problems (except as a window into the French un-system)!, our luggage (all 7 pieces) made it, and our apartment and location is better than we could have hoped.

We explored but briefly yesterday, and today I look forward to venturing out and about and stocking up on some essentials and non essentials.  It’s an odd feeling knowing that I won’t be working, and my commitments and responsibilities are minor.  I’m eager to see where this journey takes us.

For today, I’ll settle for watching the sun rise over the City, croissants for breakfast, a little market shopping and unpacking my clothes.

à bientôt!!!